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Introduction:
Kapura Peak (6350-M) located in home of Rock Climbing Nangma valley Kanday Baltistan. Kapura (6544m) is an elegant pyramid of rock and ice that rises from the west ridge of K6. Famous for having only recently been climbed – in 2004 – by Steve House, it only saw one ascent from Nangma Valley in 2013, by a pair of al Portuguese pin players. Paulo Roxo and Daniela Teixeira have made a route that ends on the south peak at about 6350m of altitude: it is called “Never Ending Dreams”, it extends for 1300 meters and presents difficulties of M4 and ice up to 70°.However, the mountain symbol of this valley does not have a comfortable wall, much less close to a possible base camp. The summit is a confusing party of frames and the exit from the wall cannot be done without ice equipment and a good ability to move on this type of terrain. Climbing History In early September 2013 the Portuguese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m)of Nangma Valley, Karakoram,via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4). The two climbers from Portugal climbed a 1300m line up the SW Ridge past difficulties up to M4 and 70° ice and theirs is the first route from the Nangma Valley. Kapura's main summit was first climbed in 2004 by Doug Chabot, Steve House, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj and Steve Swenson from the Charakusa side, while in 2009 MarekHolecek and Jan Doudlebsky added another route from the same side, namely Wild Wings (1300m, WI5+).
Climbing History
In early September 2013 the Portuguese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m)of Nangma Valley, Karakoram,via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).
The two climbers from Portugal climbed a 1300m line up the SW Ridge past difficulties up to M4 and 70° ice and theirs is the first route from the Nangma Valley. Kapura's main summit was first climbed in 2004 by Doug Chabot, Steve House, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj and Steve Swenson from the Charakusa side, while in 2009 MarekHolecek and Jan Doudlebsky added another route from the same side, namely Wild Wings (1300m, WI5+).
